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Tips & Guide
 
 
Tips & Guides

Tips & Guides

How to Replace a Mortice Lock

A mortice lock is secured using two screws one at the top and one at the bottom of the lock. These screws are visible on the locking face of the door. Unscrewing these will allow you to remove the lock and forend plate. If the lock is a sashlock this means that it operates with a handle then the handle also has to be removed. A door can have a independent handle and therefore not have a sashlock, and examples of sash and deadlocks are shown in the pictures below. It is then important to measure your lock, measure it from front to back it will either be 2½” or 3” typically a lock adjacent to glass panel will be 2½” and 3” otherwise, but you should check. Your new lock should fit the hole the old lock was removed from (remember to screw the forend plate on at the same time as securing the lock). If you have a deadlock you should now be finished if you have a sashlock you need to make sure the spring loaded latch is a the top as you secure the lock so you can refit your handles. You will notice you will still have a striker plate or box striker left in the packaging. Generally you will not need this as the one fitted will be adequate. If however if the lock will not work then you will need to fit the new striker as well. To do this, remove the screws that attach it to the door frame and remove it. The reason the lock will not be working will be that old striker is not deep enough so it is likely you will either have to drill, rout or chisel the hole it sits in deeper. It is recommended you check the fit of your new striker before you attempt to deepen the hole. If fitting a sash lock make sure that the curved edge of the striker points the same way as the face of the door when it is open so it closes properly. Secure your new striker and you are finished.

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How to replace Cylinders on a Nightlatch

Traditional and Front Door lock style latches can have easily be replaced. The cylinder is a standard one and works for ERA/Yale or any other equivalent.

With ERA’s traditional nightlatch the screws are surface mounted on the inside these can be unscrewed and the cylinder itself pushed through the door on the outside. The new cylinder is then pushed through the hole and seated in the lock which can then be fixed back to the door. Make sure that the arm of your new cylinder is the same length as your old cylinder by hacksawing it to size. Also remember that the arm of the cylinder only needs to sit in the aperture of the lock, it does not need any pressure applying to push it in.

A front door lock is the same as a traditional nightlatch although the lock is removed by unscrewing screws that are on the latch face of the lock. The lock then will lift off and leaving the fixing plate still attached to the door. The cylinder can then be replaced in the same way as the traditional nightlatch.

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How to replace a Euro Cylinder

Euro cylinders in UPVC doors are secured by a screw on the locking face of the door. This screw is located level with the bottom of cylinder. Unscrewing this will release the Euro Cylinder and it will slide out. It is important then to measure the cylinder to ensure the right size replacement is purchased. Measure the cylinder you have removed from the one face (where the key goes in) to the fixing hole under the cam (the rotating arm of the cylinder) and then measure from the fixing hole to the other face of the cylinder. These 2 dimensions give you the size of your cylinder for example the cylinder in the diagram would be a A/B (A and B being the respective measurements in mm). Slide the replacement cylinder in ensuring that if your cylinder is uneven the longer side is on the correct side. The fixing screw will not go back in if the cylinder is wrong. Secure the screw and your lock is changed.

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SECURING DOORS

Having our homes broken into is something that we all worry about. Figures from the Government’s Crime Reduction team highlight the likelihood that burglars will enter a property via a door. "Burglars are most likely to target doors (71%), usually by forcing a lock (28%). Breaking door panels is also a relatively common method of entry."*

However, there is no need to live in a fortress. Era’s 'Help and Advice' section will tell you about many simple measures you can take to help you feel safe and sound without feeling like a prisoner in your own home.
* Source: Crime Reduction Toolkit: Point and Method of Entry



Door security… easy as one, two, three


 
1. ‘Gimme a high five’
A 5 Lever mortice lock is an absolute essential for front and back doors. The best way to secure a door, many insurance companies specify
BS3621 five-lever mortice locks must be fitted as a condition of home insurance policies. Be sure to look out for the British Standard kitemark that assures the lock is proof against drilling, picking, cutting or forcing.

A 5 lever
mortice lock has the classic keys and key hole and a sturdy bolt that engages in a slot recessed in the frame. This means it is strong and will resist a ‘kick-in’ attack.

Most
mortice locks have a lever mechanism - the key operates a series of levers that open and close the bolt. Simple two-and three-lever locks are cheap but also easy to break into; for real security, a 5 lever lock should be regarded as the acceptable minimum.

2. Stop burglars with ‘a bolt out of the blue’
For maximum security, doors should also be fitted at the top and bottom with bolts – the best type is the door security bolt, or
rack bolt, which is recessed in the door and door frame and operated by a key. Rack bolts are essential for French windows or doors where a burglar can gain access by removing exposed hinge pins. Hinge bolts that engage automatically as the door closes are also a good idea.

3. Safe and sound at night

Nightlatches offer good basic door security. Opened from the outside with a key and from the inside with a handle, nightlatches are convenient as they lock automatically on closing and can be put ‘on the latch’ - locked open with a lever.
Nightlatches are best used as an additional method of security. As it is screwed to the door frame, it is still possible for burglars to kick the door in or trip the lock tongue with a thin piece of plastic – the credit card trick so beloved of Hollywood crime film makers!
A deadlocking facility adds extra security; giving the key an extra turn ‘deadlocks the night latch so it can be released with the key from the outside, but can’t be opened from the inside – foiling the burglar who has smashed the glass to reach in.


Top ten tips to tighten your door security

• Never leave a spare key in a hiding place such as under a flower pot, door mat or even on a piece of string through the letter box (you’d be surprised how many people do this!) A thief will try all the usual hiding places.
• Fitting a
door viewer ensures that you don’t have to open the door to strangers.
• The addition of a door chain means that you can speak to strangers without letting them in to your home.
• When buying PVCu doors, make sure they are fitted with strong built-in locks and a fitted chain. Try and avoid PVCu doors that are only secured by roller cams. Multi-point locking is your best bet – offering a combination of rollers, mushrooms, hooks and bolts.
• Ensure your front and back doors are secured with a
5 lever mortice deadlock. Even if a thief breaks door glass to try and open the door from the inside, he will be defeated as a deadlock only opens with a key.
• Make sure that your door hinges are strong and are fitted with long screws. It is possible to fit hinge bolts, which will reinforce the hinge side of the door against attempted forced entry.
• Fitting an anti-jemmy SecuStrip will stop thieves from crow-barring open your door.
• Patio doors should have special locks such as push bolts fitted to them.
• Fitting bolts to the top and bottom of outside doors, especially back doors, provides great added security.
THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP
• Once you’ve increased your security measures, make sure you USE THEM

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SECURING YOUR GARAGE, SHED AND GARDEN

Top Tips to secure your shed, garden and outbuildings

Securing the Garage
• If you are having a garage built or have ordered a sectional one, ask yourself, do I really need a window?
• When washing the car keep your garage door closed, don't advertise your goods to passers by. Out of sight, out of mind!
• Use permanent marking to postcode your valuables, you can engrave items or use one of the commercially available property marking kits.
• Prickly bushes such as pyracanthus, roses, berberis or hawthorn can be an effective and environmentally friendly deterrent if under a window or around your perimeter.
• Good lighting, low energy dusk to dawn lighting if you are overlooked and operated by a movement detector if you are not.
• Join or start a Neighbourhood Watch, and encourage your community to look out for each other. Use an additional good quality garage door lock.
• Fasten your valuable items together and secure to the fabric of the building or into the floor. Consider buying a stand alone shed or garage alarm for around £20.00.
• You can use a battery operated personal alarm as a shed alarm. Fit the main body of the alarm to the frame and fasten the pull cord to the door. When the door opens the cord is removed from the alarm.


Securing the Garden
• Secure the entry to the garden - use a gate and lock it
• Put a light trellis on the top of walls and fences to discourage climbing over put a strong padlock on the shed or garage
• Use plant anchors on valuable plants
• Use vibration sensors on statues or furniture, which can set off alarms or lights or phone the police.
• Install outside lights controlled by movement detectors, timers or electric cells
• Lock up ladders in the shed to prevent their use by burglars
• Maintain fences in good order and lock the gate to your back garden
• Keep your front garden shrubbery low to help neighbours keep an eye on your home

Get Sheducated.
• Check the latching device on your shed. Most sheds have ½" screws holding the latching device onto the shed frame. These ½" screws should be replaced with longer approx. 1" screws or bolts. Latches secured with ½" screws are easily broken off enabling burglars to defeat any type lock.
• Always lock the shed with a heavy-duty lock
• Run a heavy-duty chain through items in the shed, especially bikes, lawn equipment and other large tools. This allows you to lock the items together making it tougher for burglars to quickly remove items.
• Engrave all valuable property that is stored in your shed with your driver's license number.
• Record all model and serial numbers of property stored in the shed. This allows the property to be entered into the National Crime Information Centre Computer, in case of theft, allowing the property to be easily identified as stolen.
• Install a motion detector flood light on your house or shed that would illuminate any intruders.
• Help protect your neighbours by reporting suspicious persons or vehicles in or around your neighbourhood. Remember most shed burglaries and break-ins occur during daylight hours when most people are at work.

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SECURING WINDOWS

Securing windows is a simple and effective way of deterring would-be-thieves and in this section, we will showcase three of the best window security devices, detailing when, where and why they should be installed.

According to recent figures released by the Government, in one in ten burglaries, entry is gained via a window. Astonishingly, in just under a third (30%) of burglaries with entry, access is gained through an unlocked door or open window.

Burglars want to avoid the noise of breaking a window to gain entry into properties. Window locks which can be easily seen may put some thieves off, because a window lock forces the thief to break glass and risk attracting attention.

In the recent 'Crime in England and Wales 2001/2002 supplementary volume' 30% of respondents to the government survey said they had made improvements to their home security either because their own home had been burgled or because there had been an increase in burglaries in the local area. To this end, the need for sufficient window security is ever present among UK homes.

Three of the best - windows
There are many devices that can be added to or replace existing window furniture, to provide security peace of mind. Below are three popular methods of increasing your existing security. Each requires simple DIY knowledge and all are priced to offer great value for money.

Get a handle on security
A Locking Handle offers 'good looking' window security. It is self-locking and only needs a cut key to unlock it. The ERA Locking Handle's (Product Code 808) mechanism enables homeowners to lock the window closed or partially open – when at home - for additional ventilation.

Locking Handles are usually available in a number of colours and finishes to suit the style of traditional or modern homes.

Always remember to remove keys from locked windows. Keep the keys out of sight and in a safe place.

Stay Safe
When looking for security products most people want maximum security effect with little impact on look and functionality.

A Lockable Stay provides all these benefits. The threaded peg of an Era Lockable Stay fits onto the stay without spoiling the aesthetics of the window. To allow for window ventilation the Lockable Stay can be secured in an open or closed position – a great safety benefit if you have small children.

If child safety is a particular concern a Securistay is a must. Allowing ventilation with security, an Era Securistay restricts opening to 75mm (3"). A key has to be used to unlock it and the lock can only be disconnected when the window is closed.

With or without children, a Securistay is a suggested safety measure for windows in high rise buildings.

Avoid the thieving game with Snap lock

If it's simple yet effective window security you're looking for then a Snap Lock is one of your best bets. Looking to take the next step in security measures without spending much time or money? The easy-fitting Era Snap Lock will provide the answer.

Suitable for most types of windows, once fitted, the Snaplock will lock automatically, as the window is closed. A key is only then required to unlock it.

On a concealed window thieves may have time to break glass and try and unscrew locking devices from the inside. Cunning plugs conceal and protect the fixing screws of a Snap Lock, foiling the would-be-burglar.

Top ten tips to keep the burglars out - windows
• Window locks with keys should be fitted to all downstairs windows
• Don't forget locks on easy-to-reach upstairs windows. Burglars will use drainpipes or flat roofs to break in via a window
• Any gap that is larger than a human head will provide access for a thief. Even small windows such as skylights or bathroom fanlights need locks
• Remember to remove keys from locked windows and keep them out of sight, in a safe place
• If you are replacing windows, you may want to consider using laminated glass
• Louver windows are particularly at risk from being used to enter properties as thieves can easily remove slats from the frame. If replacing them with fixed glass is not an option, glue the slats into place or fit a special louver lock
• Before you think of fitting additional locks to PVCu windows, talk to the window installer to make sure new locks won't affect your warranty
• As a strong security measure, consider fitting security grilles to vulnerable downstairs windows. There are lots of different decorative wrought-iron grilles available from UK DIY shops
• Don't leave windows open - even upstairs windows - when you go out
MOST IMPORTANT TIP
• Don't let yours be a window of opportunity for a burglar - lock him out

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The Language of Locks

ACCESSORIES - The term used to describe products usually in addition to basic security that help to upgrade your home security.

BATHROOM DOOR LOCK
- A type of Mortice lock featuring a thumbturn facility which is used to lock the door from inside.

DEADLOCK
- A key operated Mortice lock that “deadlocks” when operated. It does not have a handle or latch.

DOOR CHAIN
- Allows the door only to be part-opened to see who is there.

DOOR SECURITY BOLT
- A bolt fitted into the door which can only be opened from one side with a splined key.

DOOR VIEWER
- Or “spy hole”, lets you see who’s at the door without opening it.

DOUBLE LOCKING NIGHTLATCH
- Offers additional security than a standard Nightlatch as the main lock to it automatically deadlocks. Provides high security, particularly for doors with glass panels.

DUAL SCREWS
- Suitable for most sash and sliding windows.

LEVER
- Levers are used in Mortice locks. The more levers, the higher standard of security provided.

MORTICE LOCK
- Recommended for all external doors, particularly 5 Lever British Standard which offers high security.

NIGHTLATCH
- Suitable for front and back doors, featuring a latch that holds the door shut.

REPLACEMENT CYLINDER
- Simply replaces the centre lock section of a Nightlatch. An easy way to “change to locks”.

RIMLOCK
- This is fitted to the surface of a door - often used on shed and garage doors and older/cottage style doors.

SASH JAMMER
- The ideal lock to secure most PVCU casement and transom windows.

SASHLOCK
- A “deadlock” with the addition of a latch mechanism, used with a handle.

SNAPLOCK
- Another good security option for wooden casement, transom and pivot windows. It automatically “snaps” locked when the window is closed.

SNIB
- A button on a Nightlatch that is used to hold the latch back.

SPLINED KEY
- A standard key with grooves in it, used with door security bolts.

STAYLOCKS
- Designed to fit through the holes on a casement window catch.

SWING LOCK
- Ideal for most wooden casement, transom and pivot windows.

THUMBTURN
- A small knob used to operate a bolt.

TUBULAR LATCH
- Used with handles and knobs on internal doors.

WINDOW LOCKS
- Locks specifically designed to secure a wide range of windows

 

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